Nicholas
Reid reflects in essay form on general matters and ideas related to
literature, history, popular culture and the arts, or just life in general. You are free to agree
or disagree with him.
HOW TO EAT AN APPLE
How to eat an apple?
Here are my nine steps to eating
an apple successfully.
ONE – Go to the local
fruit-and-vege shop, NOT to the local supermarket where many fruits are
expensively pre-bagged and even those that aren’t are over-priced.
TWO – Linger in the local
fruit-and-vege shop. Enjoy the healthy smells of all the natural produce. Spend
a short time fantasising about how, when you were still at school, you would
have liked to get a holiday or weekend job in a place like this, but you never
did.
THREE – Now, depending on what is
available, or what is in season, choose the type of apples you will buy. Avoid
Granny Smiths unless absolutely necessary – or unless your wife wants apples to
cook. They are boring apples. They are apples you will eat greedily only if
there is nothing else available. Consider Sturmers seriously – they have a
wonderful stinging bite to their taste, but you have to be careful because you
know some members of your family can’t stand them. And you haven’t seen them
here for years. Braeburns will do as a substitute. Of course consider the Gala variety. Even consider those
rosy-coloured Pacific varieties, the name of which you forget. They are such
surprising apples. Hard. A bit chalky. But always sweet. And consider those
delicious ones that have dappled and patterned skins. Curse yourself for never
having studied botany and not knowing the right names, though you do know which
ones you mean.
FOUR – Take home the type of
apples you have purchased. Empty the bag. Arrange them neatly in a pyramid on
the fruit bowl in your living room. If fate and time have forced you to ignore
your own advice and buy them at the supermarket, then spend some moments
picking off those annoying plastic labels that some marketing idiot got
companies to stick on individual apples.
FIVE – Go up to your study. Vow
to be strong. Vow to resist temptation and not to go down to the fruit bowl and
start raiding the apples. It’s only an hour or so since you had a meal, for
goodness sake. Soldier on writing at your word processor. Yes, soldier on stoically,
heroically, ascetically. For about ten minutes. Then get stuck on the right
word. Go downstairs. Give in to temptation.
SIX – Pick up the apple you have
chosen. [OPTIONAL - Hold the stem between
thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Hold the apple in your left hand and
twist, twist, twist until the stem comes off. Drop stem in kitchen tidy (or
chuck stem nonchalantly over shoulder, knowing it will be picked up in the next
vacuuming).]
SEVEN – Bite into the apple. Eat
the apple. Avoid swooning. It is like Camembert. It is like salami. It is like
Lapsang Souchong tea. It is like parsnips. It is one of those tastes that
reminds you there is a God. Yes, there can be disappointments. The floury
tastelessness of apples that you did not realise had been refrigerated for a
long tome. The hidden rotten spot. But as an apple connoisseur, you know never
to throw away an apple with a little rot in it. You take a sharp knife and
perform a rot-ectomy and then eat the apple, ignoring the pungent smell that
might linger about the crater where the rotten bit was.
EIGHT – Yes, I did say eat the
apple. I did not say eat part of the apple. I did not say eat a little bit of the apple and then throw the rest away, or
set it aside so that its flesh browns to unsightliness. I said eat the apple.
The whole apple. You are not a
true lover of apples if you do not eat the whole apple. Eat the flesh and skin
around the core. Then eat the core. [OPTIONAL
– If you have not already detached the stem, you may at this stage hold the
apple by the stem and then eat until there is nothing left but the stem, of
which you dispose as instructed above.] Recently, a woman, whom I admire
almost to the point of folly, was advising us of habits she detests. They
included nail-biting and nose-picking [fair enough]; but they also included
eating the core of an apple. I was forced to reconsider seriously my deep admiration
for this woman. How can you possibly say you have enjoyed an apple if you have
not swallowed its star of pips, not ingested the healthy roughage of its
internal chambers? (Fragments of which will pass, undigested, through your body
the next time you excrete.) Not to eat the core of the apple reveals you to be
a superficial person who skates on the surface of life, taking only the
obviously sweet without developing a view of life’s variety, the rough and the
smooth. Not to eat the core of the apple is like not ever tasting salt on your
tongue, or the sharp smack of ginger. You are probably the bland sort of person
who does not put black pepper in your omelette. The core is an essential part
of the true apple experience. One cannot be a real philomel without eating the
core. Besides, in eating the core, you are performing a public service by not
leaving any waste.
NINE – Sigh contentedly. Burp if
there is nobody around. Go back up to your desk and resume work. Repeat steps
FIVE, SIX, SEVEN and EIGHT as above, three or four times in the course of the
afternoon. By dinnertime, begin to notice that the pyramid of apples in the
fruit bowl seems to be much lower than you thought. Suggest to your wife that
you should buy some more apples tomorrow.
Ah apples, apples! They should be
the stuff of song and poetry the way wine is, but poems that directly address
apples are lamentably sparse. I know you can go on line and find a list of twenty
or so poems relating to apples. But the melophiles who compiled this list were
really scraping the apple barrel, as some of the poems that are listed are
obscure and unmemorable, or have apples only as incidental details. When I
think of apples in poetry, I at once recall W. B. Yeats’ “Song of Wandering
Aengus” with its last stanza where he says that he will “walk through long green dappled grass / And pluck till time and times
are done / The silver apples of the moon / The golden apples of the sun.”
And I think of Dylan Thomas’ “Fern Hill” (“I
was young and easy under the apple boughs”). But most of all I think of the
best fully-apple-oriented poem, by a very minor poet who was generally not
particularly good. But in this case he has caught a good part of the apple
experience, even if he has not got to the core of it.
Here is Laurie Lee’s poem “Apples”:
Behold the apples’
rounded worlds:
juice-green of July rain,
the black polestar of flowers, the rind
mapped with its crimson stain.
The russet, crab and cottage red
burn to the sun’s hot brass,
then drop like sweat from every branch
and bubble in the grass.
They lie as wanton as they fall,
and where they fall and break,
the stallion clamps his crunching jaws,
the starling stabs his beak.
In each plump gourd the cidery bite
of boys’ teeth tears the skin;
the waltzing wasp consumes his share,
the bent worm enters in.
I, with as easy hunger, take
entire my season’s dole;
welcome the ripe, the sweet, the sour,
the hollow and the whole.
juice-green of July rain,
the black polestar of flowers, the rind
mapped with its crimson stain.
The russet, crab and cottage red
burn to the sun’s hot brass,
then drop like sweat from every branch
and bubble in the grass.
They lie as wanton as they fall,
and where they fall and break,
the stallion clamps his crunching jaws,
the starling stabs his beak.
In each plump gourd the cidery bite
of boys’ teeth tears the skin;
the waltzing wasp consumes his share,
the bent worm enters in.
I, with as easy hunger, take
entire my season’s dole;
welcome the ripe, the sweet, the sour,
the hollow and the whole.
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