We feature each fortnight Nicholas Reid's reviews and comments on new and recent books.
“ALWAYS SONG
IN THE WATER” by Gregory O’Brien (Auckland University Press, $NZ 45); “SINGING
THE TRAIL” by John McCrystal (Allen and Unwin, $NZ59:99)
The
subtitle of Gregory O’Brien’s diverse, informative and very engaging book Always Song in the Water is “An Oceanic
Sketchbook”. This seems to me far too modest a description.
Always Song in the Water is a large, handsome book [over 250 pages] of art
works and essays. The art works (drawings, sketches, paintings and photographs)
are by a number of credited artists, including O’Brien himself, who is artist,
essayist and curator as much as poet. The text is all by O’Brien. The topic is
essentially New Zealand’s connection with, and isolation in, the Pacific Ocean,
with many reflections upon this condition. But much of the text digs deeply
into O’Brien’s background and influences as both artist and poet. So inevitably
much of it is highly autobiographical. Explained very late in book, the title Always Song in the Water refers to the
songs of our mammalian cousins, whales, which at some point become a measure of
our identity with the ocean that enfolds us.
Because “sketchbook” implies
something done on the run, faits divers
rather than a structured whole, and Always
Song in the Water does have a definite structure and backbone. The term “bricolage” – a single work of art made out of many
and varied things - has sometimes been applied to O’Brien’s work, and it is
certainly applicable here. Always Song in the Water runs through
many anecdotes and many topics, but O’Brien is not bundling them together at
random. They move in a certain direction and add up to a coherent whole. I’d
propose substituting as subtitle “An Oceanic Bricolage”.
In his
Introduction, O’Brien admits that
he is not a great seaman, although clearly he has made a number of voyages. But
his concept of New Zealand and its relationship with the ocean altered for him
in his 2011 trip to the Kermadecs. O’Brien has responded to this trip before
(see Beauties of the Octagonal Pool,
his poetry collection reviewed on this blog in 2012). In 2011, he was one of
nine visual artists who, together with the minister of conservation, conservation
workers and one broadcaster, were passengers on HMNZS Otago in a sponsored trip to Raoul Island, one of the five Kermadec
islands which used to be called Sunday Island. New Zealand territory, the
Kermadecs are the uplifted parts of a submarine volcanic ridge stretching from
New Zealand to Tonga. O’Brien was forcefully reminded that New Zealand ranges
far beyond Cape Reinga – indeed, New Zealand’s territorial waters extend 200 nautical
miles north of Raoul Island. This fired in O’Brien’s mind an expanded sense of
the oceanic nature of New Zealand as a fluid, moving continent. In the early
sections of Always Song in the Water, O’Brien
uses the overgrown dinghy in his front yard as a symbol of New Zealand, movable
but anchored in sea.
Always Song in the Water divides into two parts.
Part
One is billed as “Coasting – a Northland Road Trip”. In 2014, O’Brien drove
north from Auckland to Whangarei with his artist friend, the non-driving Noel
McKenna, who remarked, correctly, that it’s better to be the passenger on such journeys
as you have the leisure to look around rather than having your eyes fixed on
the road. They meet an ex-Trappist friend of O’Brien’s and visit his meditation
room. In Dargaville, O’Brien recalls that he began his career as a journalist
on the town’s daily Northland Times,
where he first took an interest in typefaces. He recalls his own youthful experiences
of surfing and renders surfies as metaphors for poets. The rituals of drinking tea
are discussed. There are encounters with abandoned cars and topiary work and
all the unleashed dogs in Northland and the sighting an (imaginary?) wolf. Caravans
as places of residence are discussed and there are a couple of bizarre tales,
one about the nursing career of O’Brien’s mother and the other about riding
pillion on a motorbike while gripping the oars of the dinghy.
All
this might indeed sound like random observations until you see how the emphasis
on literature and (more expansively) art builds up. O’Brien remarks: “Periodically, my family criticises me for my
inabiity to drive anywhere in New Zealand without continually citing not only
McCahon, but also Baxter and Frame.” (p.105) When he encounters a second-hand
bookstall in the middle of nowhere, he is surprised to find among the dross
some classy books (Coleridge, Heraclitus etc.). Dargaville, with its muddy
river and second-hand shops, calls to mind Jane Mander and her piano on the
riverbank, which in turn segues into the idea of New Zealand literature and art being adaptations of
European norms, such as pianos. There is much reference to Clare Cavanagh’s
concept of playing “Schubert on a barrel
organ”, which seems a rather contorted way of referring to New Zealand
writers and artists playing variations on European-sourced models.
Ultimately
the visual artists get more space than the writers, though. We are told that
Colin McCahon fled north to re-find himself and later he wept when he saw
Ahipara. O’Brien discusses the influence of a Michael Smither sketch he was
given by his parents; and Ralph Hotere’s collaboration with Bill Manhire in an
art-and-text publication. The surreal films of Florian Habicht are referenced a
number of times, because in O’Brien’s interpretation they give a psychic survey
of what we are… and later Habicht is found to have been influenced by
Friedensreich Hundertwasser, another denizen of Northland.
What
Part One has revealed gradually then, is not reminiscence so much as, through
writers and artists, the imaginative interpretation of Northland. And more
important, this first half of the book is heading northwards like a long run up
to the long-jump. The long-jump is Part Two where O’Brien launches into the sea
itself. Running on Ninety Mile Beach leads him to say “the real northernmost tundra of Aotearoa New Zealand is the Pacific Ocean itself, at once inviting and
inhospitable, bracing and mind-boggling.” (p.99)
So
we are in the ocean in Part Two, billed as “We Went Ashore One Morning”. This
begins with the 2011 voyage to Raoul Island “the remotest part of New Zealand, an active volcano located on an earthquake
fault line, it has the air of an island that wants to be left alone.”
(p.131) The shaky island has been rendered pest-free, so it teems with birds
and indigenous wildlife, as well as flourishing foliage. O’Brien and his
companions are there for 48 hours and it is endearing to learn that he reads
the poetry of Edith Sitwell while on Raoul Island “because here nature itself seems eccentric, excessive and at times
implausible”. (p.136) Here is the
key to the whole book, when O’Brien says that after leaving the island its image
stayed with him and it altered his sense of the shape of New Zealand: “A different profile of the nation came to
assert itself – an archipelagic concept which has been, and continues to be, an
invigorating and creatively sustaining proposition…” (p.140) It also
heightened his awareness of New Zealand as “a
gyrating, quivering nation-machine… a nation that is geologically and
seismically in a state of ongoing upheaval and adjustment.” (p.142).
Once
again, some sections of Part Two could seem random observations or simply
interesting anecdotes, as when O’Brien decribes the traditional tying of ropes
by the naval crew or traditional naval slang or the crew’s traditional
over-the-side swim, in mid-ocean, when they cross the Tropic of Capricorn. But
ultimately artistic interpretation is what dominates and the ocean is related
to artistic endeavour. Off the Wellington coast, the ashes of the artist John
Drawbridge are dispersed into the sea. The South Pacific, we are told, might better
be called Oceania, in line with Pasifika writers such as Epeli Hau’ofa, who
interpret the ocean as their whole world. Repeatedly O’Brien reflects on
artists who have imagined submarine seascapes and there are reveries about the
sinking of the SS Mikhail Lermontov
in Marlborough Sounds in 1986.
Alongside
this, there is inevitably a strong conservationist tone. In somewhat opaque
prose, the section titled “The Questioning Sea” gives a mystic view of sea as
nurturer. But fouling this are the huge numbers of containers now floating in
the seas and the dangers they create, such as sinking ships or washing
toxically ashore. Elsewhere O’Brien notes the great, slow migrations of
crayfish across the seabed when careless human beings have over-harvested them
in one area – and he also notes the anxiety with which surveys of whales are
now conducted. Of the very many images reproduced in this book, one of the most
arresting is O’Brien’s own rendering of a whale survey conducted at Raoul
Island. Near book’s end, there is a plea for the revival of the Kermadec Ocean
Sanctuary Bill, which stalled after being introduced in 2016 and has yet to be
written into law.
So,
anecdotes and asides and light moments and all, this book creeps up on you,
with copious images and with two long poems by O’Brien, “For Rebecca Priestley in Antarctica” and “Ode
to the Kermadec Trench.” For all the pieces of which it is composed, it makes a
strong central impression. Not bric-a-brac but excellent bricolage.
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Totally
different in purpose and structure, there is another new publication that helps
us see New Zealand in a new light. If Gregory O’Brien’s Always Song in the Water makes us consider New Zealand as an
oceanic continent, John McCrystal’s carefully-researched Singing the Trail shows us how New Zealand came to be mapped in the
first place, and how we gained what is now our indelible mental image of these
islands. Subtitled “The Story of Mapping Aotearoa New Zealand”, Singing the Trail is a sturdy hardback
of over 250 wide pages, showing us the most significant maps of New Zealand and
of the Pacific since, a bit over 400 years ago, Europeans first began to guess
what might be in this part of the ocean. There was so much pure guessing and
speculation that “the first European maps
of Aotearoa were works of science fiction” says McCrystal. (p.8)
McCrystal
provides a very detailed introduction to each section of the book, as well as
substantial notes on each of the many maps that are reproduced. Text talks to
image.
In
his general Introduction, McCrystal tells us that his own fascination with maps
began with his “boatie” father, who knew how to read maritime charts and
navigate by them, as well as recognising and steering by landmarks. McCrystal
picked up the mapping bug. But he adds that some form of mapping is inherent in
us, as it is in some other animals such as birds, bees and dogs. They have
mental systems enabling them to remember routes, hence they can travel to desired
destinations. As for earlier human beings in oral cultures, their first “maps”
were spoken stories, designed to help voyagers remember what to look out for on
a particular route. McCrystal explains that the first real, non-speculative maps
of New Zealand made by Europeans were obviously confined to the coast and
focused on finding safe harbours and anchorages. Then came maps pointing out
places where exploitable resources could be found (seals, flax, timber). Then
maps related to Pakeha settlements. Then military maps during wars between
Maori and Pakeha (ordinance maps, military routes, plans of pas and redoubts);
then the latest survey maps using technologies unknown to the earliest
explorers. In his choice of maps to go along with his text, McCrystal admits
that he has chosen ones that are “aesthetically
pleasing”, as well as telling a story.
The
text is divided into three long sections.
Part
One, called “Coast”, is about first discoveries and the first mapping of the
shape of New Zealand. This section deals in detail with Polynesian navigation
and the use of ancestral stories of gods and perils as mnemonics guiding
voyagers to landmarks in the vast ocean. The European system of drawing a
chart, and the Polynesian system of memorising a route, met in the person of
Tupaia. He was taken on board by James Cook, and questioned about islands in
the Pacific. English cartographers made a drawing of what he explained.
Fittingly, a rendering of Tupaia’s conception of the Pacific is the first map
in the book. As McCrystal explains, there are fantastical theories that peoples
before the Maori first “discovered” Aotearoa – or even that Europeans other
than the Dutchman Abel Tasman were the first to see New Zealand. These theories
(which usually imply racist ideologies) are easily disproven on archaeological
grounds, and also by the nature of European maps before Tasman. The text moves
on to European maps made after Tasman’s 1642 voyage, with much guesswork still
on display; maps made after Cook’s voyages in the 1770s, and maps made by
French explorers. Many an early map is an itinerarium (concerned with getting
from A to B) rather than scientific cartography. This is particularly true of
maps prepared by whalers and sealers in search of prey. The last map in this
section was printed in 1858, by which stage the (coastal) shape of New Zealand
was (almost) fully known.
Part
Two, called “Inland”, deals with 19th century maps as Pakeha now
began to explore the interior of the country and lay out areas for settlement. It
is interesting to note that just before the Treaty of Waitangi, and just before
mass Pakeha settlement began, Europeans were still ignorant of much that lay
between the coasts. Wyld’s chart of 1839 gets the shape of New Zealand more or
less right (with a few gross mistakes) but is entirely ignorant of the
existence of Lake Taupo and has only the vaguest notion of where mountain
ranges lie. After 1840, there are maps of localities prepared by missionary
societies or by Wakefield’s New Zealand Company. There are neat grids of roads
laid out for Wanganui, Wellington, Dunedin and other major settlements,
including Felton Matthew’s conception of what Auckland should be, with its
impossible concentric ring roads. Later, during the wars of the 1860s, there
come the ordinance maps and military routes and – on an even more melancholy
note – maps showing lands that had been confiscated from iwi by the New Zealand
government after the wars were over.
Part
Three, called “Changing Views”, contains maps from the late nineteenth century
to the early 21st century. They are mainly specialised maps, made
after accurate renderings of the shape and topographical features of New
Zealand had been determined. Each is interested in some particular aspect of
New Zealand. Thus, from the early twentieth century, there is a map showing New
Zealand’s place in the British Empire, and there are maps showing places
overseas where New Zealanders fought and died in the First World War (Gallipoli
and the Dardanelles in 1915; Le Quesnoy in 1917; and grids of military
cemeteries). Maps show New Zealand’s dependencies in the Pacific and in
Antarctica, and New Zealand’s economic fishing zones. And so on to maps giving
the locations of New Zealand’s lighthouses; maps indicating where most
shipwrecks have occurred; guide maps of railway, steamer and coach routes; and promotional
material aimed at tourists. These include a colourful rendition of the Raurimu
Spiral prepared in 1929 for New Zealand Railways; and a “fun” map made in 1960
for New Zealand’s old domestic airline NAC, giving a cartoonish version of the
country’s major tourist attractions. From Hochstetter in the nineteenth century
to the satellite image of New Zealand that ends the book, one constant is the
way techniques of topographical survey improved.
In
my tiresome bibliographical way, I have told you accurately what this book
contains. McCrystal’s text is accessible and very readable – my only
reservation is that occasionally his style can get a little facetious, with
strained puns. (Does a section on the mapping of New Zealand’s rich natural
resources really have to be called
“Scrutiny on the Bounty”?). What I have not made clear, however, is the sheer
fascination of the maps themselves. After all the real and informative material
this book delivers, and after all the explanations of individual maps, Singing the Trail is in the end a great
site for wool-gathering. As we look at the earlier maps made by Europeans, we
may at first smirk at how wrong they got things. But then we realise what an
exacting – and often dangerous – thing it was to make a chart of a
newly-discovered country, and we understand what an extraordinary thing it is
that we have maps at all.